Custom Silk Garment Knowledge Sharing & FAQs

By Jinsanta Silk Knitting

Silk, a gem among natural fabrics, is renowned for its luminous sheen, delicate texture, breathability, and skin-friendly properties, making it a premier choice for high-end custom garments. However, the wide variety of silk types and intricate customization details often lead to misunderstandings in fabric selection, pattern fitting, and care, compromising both wearability and longevity. Based on Jinsanta Silk Knitting’s years of expertise in silk weaving and customization, we have compiled a series of high-frequency Q&As covering everything from fundamental knowledge to detailed pitfalls. This guide aims to help you effortlessly create well-fitted, durable, and exquisite custom silk garments.

Q1: What are the common types of natural silk fabrics for custom garments, and which styles are they best suited for?
A1: Natural silk primarily derives from mulberry silk, with variations in weaving techniques resulting in distinct fabrics suited for different occasions. Jinsanta Silk Knitting breaks it down:

1. Silk Satin (Mulberry Silk) – Lustrous with a mirror-like finish, smooth and soft to the touch, excellent drape. Ideal for formal wear, cheongsam (qipao), slip dresses, and high-end blouses, especially for weddings, evening events, and occasions requiring elegance.

2. Silk Georgette – Lightweight, semi-sheer, soft, and flowing with a delicate texture. Perfect for shawls, scarves, bridesmaid dresses, and summer dresses. Offers exceptional breathability and an ethereal look.

3. Silk Crepe de Chine – Features a fine crinkled texture, soft and elastic, with better wrinkle resistance than standard silk satin. Breathable and skin-friendly, suitable for everyday blouses, dresses, and sleepwear. Versatile for daily wear.

4. Xiangyunsha (Non-hereditary Craftsmanship) – Made from mulberry silk base, dyed with Dioscorea cirrhosa and treated with river mud. Develops a deeper, vintage hue over time. Offers UV protection, water resistance, and antimicrobial properties. Ideal for neo-Chinese tops, cheongsam, and trench coats, with a timeless, collectible appeal.

5. Doupioni Silk – Woven from double cocoons, creating a natural slubbed texture. Crisp, structured, and breathable. Suitable for blazers, casual shirts, and Thai-style handmade garments, offering a unique tactile feel.

*Note: Momme (mm) indicates fabric weight and density. Higher momme = thicker, more durable fabric.
16–19 mm: daily wear (blouses, dresses, sleepwear).
22–28 mm: substantial feel, ideal for formalwear, cheongsam, and outerwear.
12–14 mm: lightweight, suitable only for scarves and shawls, not for heavy embroidery or complex craftsmanship.*

Q2: How can I quickly distinguish natural silk from synthetic alternatives (e.g., acetate, rayon) to avoid being misled during customization?
A2: This is a critical step in custom silk garment ordering. Jinsanta Silk Knitting recommends three easy, tool-free methods:

1. Burn Test (Most Accurate) – Ignite a few threads. Natural silk burns slowly without an open flame, emitting a smell similar to burnt hair or feathers. Ash turns to grayish-white powder, crumbly to the touch. Synthetic fibers burn with a flame, produce a plastic-like odor, and leave hard, bead-like residue that cannot be crushed.

2. Touch Test – Natural silk feels soft, smooth, and warm against the skin, with a subtle “scroop" sound when rubbed. Synthetic alternatives often feel cooler, stiffer, or excessively slippery, lacking the characteristic silk sound.

3. Water Test – Place a water droplet on the fabric. Natural silk absorbs quickly, spreading irregularly and drying without a watermark. Synthetics absorb slowly, leave a defined ring, and may wrinkle or stiffen after drying.

Tip: Always request fabric swatches from the supplier for testing before placing an order.

Q1: What is the complete process for custom silk garments, and how long does it typically take from consultation to delivery?
A1: The core of customization lies in fit + meeting specific needs. The process involves five steps, with timelines varying based on complexity:

1. Consultation (1–2 days) – Clarify garment type, occasion, fit preference (loose/fitted), color, fabric choice, and any personalized details like embroidery or frog buttons.

2. Precise Measurement (1 day) – A professional measures key body dimensions. Since silk is elastic, stay relaxed during measurement. Key areas: shoulder width, waist, sleeve length, and garment length. For cheongsam, additional measurements (bust, hip, waistline length) are essential.

3. Pattern Design & Drafting (3–7 days) – Based on measurements and requirements, a custom pattern is created. A sample or toile may be made for fitting adjustments.

4. Cutting & Sewing (7–15 days) – Fabric is carefully cut (to prevent slipping or distortion) and sewn with fine silk thread. Key areas (neckline, cuffs, hem) are reinforced. Additional time (3–7 days) may be needed for hand embroidery or handmade buttons.

5. Fitting & Final Delivery (1–2 days) – Try on the finished garment for fit and detail check. Minor adjustments are made if needed before final delivery.

Total timeline: 15–25 days for standard styles; 25–40 days for complex designs (e.g., embroidered cheongsam, evening gowns). Plan ahead to ensure quality.

Q2: What should I pay attention to during measurement to avoid ill-fitting garments?
A2: Accurate measurement is fundamental. Jinsanta Silk Knitting highlights three key points:

1. Posture & Attire – Wear fitted, lightweight clothing. Stand naturally relaxed, shoulders down, without sucking in or pushing out the stomach.

2. Detail Focus – Measure sleeve length from shoulder point to wrist; waist at 2–3 cm above the navel (most comfortable for daily wear). For dresses or cheongsam, include height, shoulder width, bust, waist, hip, and length.

3. Special Considerations – Inform the measurer of any unique body features (e.g., sloping shoulders, rounded back, fuller abdomen) so adjustments can be incorporated into the pattern.

Q1: Is thicker or more expensive silk always better for custom garments?
A3: Not necessarily. Quality depends on fabric integrity and craftsmanship, not just weight or price.

1. Weight Selection – Choose based on season and occasion:

   • Summer: Lightweight (16–19 mm), like georgette or crepe de Chine, for breathability.

   • Spring/Autumn: Medium weight (22–25 mm), like satin or doupioni, for structure and comfort.

   • Winter: Heavyweight (28+ mm), like heavyweight silk or Xiangyunsha, often lined for warmth.

2. Price Consideration – Natural silk pricing varies by type, momme, and craftsmanship. For example, silk crepe de Chine (18 mm) is affordable and ideal for daily wear, while Xiangyunsha or heavyweight silk may be priced higher for special occasions or collectibility. Choose according to need, not just price.

Q2: Are more personalized details (embroidery, frog buttons) always better? What should I consider?
A2: Personalized touches enhance uniqueness, but excess can compromise silk’s delicate nature and wearability.

1. Design Compatibility – Embroidery or buttons should suit the garment style and fabric. For example, lightweight georgette is unsuitable for large-scale embroidery (may cause distortion); small accents on collar or cuffs work better. Silk satin or Xiangyunsha pairs well with handmade buttons or subtle embroidery.

2. Craftsmanship Matters – Use fine needles and threads for embroidery (e.g., flat silk embroidery, Suzhou embroidery) to avoid damaging the fabric. Choose silk-covered buttons to prevent abrasion from plastic or metal.

Q3: How can I prevent color fading, snagging, or deformation in custom silk garments?
A3: These issues stem from fabric quality, processing, and wearing habits. Three preventive measures:

1. Fabric Pre-treatment – Ensure the supplier pre-shrinks and color-fixes the silk to minimize shrinkage and fading. Request a colorfastness test sample if possible.

2. Construction Details – Request overlocking or rolled hems to prevent fraying. Reinforce stress points (neckline, cuffs, hem). Stitch density should be 8–10 stitches per cm (too loose may unravel; too tight may damage fibers).

3. Wearing Care – Avoid contact with sharp objects (nails, jewelry, keys). Limit prolonged sun exposure and contact with sweat (salt can corrode silk, causing discoloration or stiffness).

Q1: What are the key for cleaning custom silk garments?
A1: Silk is delicate; improper cleaning can cause fading, distortion, or hardening. Jinsanta Silk Knitting emphasizes four:

1. No Machine Washing – Agitation and friction can cause snags, distortion, or color loss. Always hand wash.

2. No Alkaline Detergents – Alkaline products (soap, regular detergent) damage fibers, causing stiffness and loss of sheen. Use only pH-neutral or mild acidic silk-specific detergents.

3. No High Heat or Sun Drying – Wash in cool water (below 30°C). Air-dry in shade; avoid direct sunlight to prevent fading and fiber degradation.

4. No Vigorous Rubbing – Gently press or swirl in water. Avoid wringing or scrubbing, especially around embroidered or buttoned areas.

Q2: How should I address wrinkles, snags, or color fading?
A2: Different issues require specific approaches:

1. Wrinkles – Use a steam iron at low heat (below 110°C) with a cloth barrier between iron and fabric. Avoid dragging the iron.

2. Snags – For minor snags, carefully trim loose threads with small scissors. For severe damage, consult a professional silk repair service.

3. Color Fading – For slight fading, add a tablespoon of white vinegar to rinse water to help restore color and sheen. For significant fading, seek professional dye stabilization—avoid home dyeing.

Q3: What are the best practices for storing silk garments to prevent damage?
A3: Proper storage prolongs silk’s life.

1. Daily Storage – Fold neatly (avoid stretching) and place in breathable bags (cotton or silk) before storing in wardrobe. Keep away from rough fabrics (e.g., denim) to prevent snagging.

2. Long-Term Storage – Clean thoroughly before storing. Fold with acid-free tissue and add cedar blocks or lavender sachets (wrapped to avoid direct contact) to deter pests. Store in a cool, dry, ventilated space. For heavy items like coats or cheongsam, use padded hangers to maintain shape.

Custom silk garment success hinges on selecting the right fabric, mastering details, and practicing proper care. At Jinsanta Silk Knitting, we believe a well-crafted silk piece is not just clothing—it’s an expression of refined living. We hope this guide empowers you to navigate customization with confidence, avoid common pitfalls, and enjoy silk garments that retain their beauty and elegance for years to come.

Jinsanta Silk Knitting – Dedicated to silk weaving and high-end customization. With artisan craftsmanship, we reveal the true beauty of silk, creating tailored pieces that embody sophistication and personal style for every client.